Georgian Smilax Salad (Ekala)

This recipe is part of my Caucasus x Appalachia series where I compare the facts and cultural impacts of plants that grow both here in America and in the Republic of Georgia. Wander over to the field journal to learn more about smilax.

Ekala is a traditional Imeretian dish that features a plant of the same name. So there’s ekala the dish and ekala the plant. Ekala is the Georgian species of smilax, Smilax excelsa. There are many species of smilax all over the world, so you can to do your local research and see which species are growing wildly around you. In America we use the common name "greenbrier" to refer to our native smilaxes. Generally speaking, all smilaxes are edible, but as with every novel ingredient you should slowly introduce it to your diet in case of any negative reaction. 

Smilaxes are brambly and usually thorny. You must be a keen forager when harvesting them. Be careful of the thorns and harvest only the supple tips at the end of the vine. Most of the plant is woody and fibrous, but the new growth is succulent and pliable. You’ll notice the difference as you bend the vine. It should break off like a snap bean.

Smilax is similar to asparagus in form and taste. Not exact, but it’s a fair comparison to a conventional vegetable. They both have woody and tender bits, so there’s that commonality as well. Smilax can be eaten raw but is usually cooked - as it is in this traditional recipe. Smilax is the featured ingredient of this recipe and is enhanced by the addition of classic Georgian flavors and textures. Using a mortar and pestle to work the garlic and jalapeno is a very archetypal element of rustic Georgian cooking, as is the milling of walnuts. 

You might find the flavors overpowering, especially the raw garlic. When I was visiting Georgia I had to adjust to the heavy handedness of raw garlic, raw onion, and pungent herbs. However, these are some of the things that make Georgian cuisine beautifully distinct and delicious. Feel free to adjust amounts or sauté the aromatics to mellow them out. I personally like to add more vinegar and a splash of luscious olive oil. But I’ve kept the recipe as traditional as possible in honor of the Georgian women who shared their ekala recipes with me and taught me how to prepare it. 

According to my friend Elene, ekala is excellent with mchadi (Georgian cornbread) and white wine. 

Smilax Salad (Ekala)

INGREDIENTS

• 500g tender smilax shoots, rinsed
• 200g walnuts
• 3 garlic cloves, roughly minced
• 1 jalapeno, roughly minced
• 3 green onions, sliced
• 30g coriander (cilantro), finely chopped
• 20g dill, finely chopped
• 3 tablespoons grape vinegar (sub. red wine vinegar)
• Salt & pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS 

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the smilax and cook for 10-15 minutes or until tender.
2. While the smilax is cooking, prepare an ice bath. Once the smilax is cooked, remove it from the water and immediately place it in the ice bath. Leave the smilax to cool in the ice bath for several minutes then drain and set the smilax aside.
3. Process the walnuts into a fine crumb using a mill or food processor. Add the processed walnuts to a large mixing bowl.
4. Add the garlic and jalapeno to a mortar and crush into a paste using the pestle. Scrape the paste into the mixing bowl along with the walnuts.
5. Add the green onions, coriander, dill, vinegar, salt, and pepper to the mixing bowl. Mix to combine.
6. Roughly chop the smilax into smaller pieces and add to the mixing bowl. Gently mix all of the elements together. 
7. Serve immediately or refrigerate.