Muscadine & Pecan Churchkhela
This recipe is part of my Caucasus x Appalachia series where I compare the facts and cultural impacts of plants that grow both here in America and in the Republic of Georgia. Wander over to the field journal to learn more about grapes and churchkhela.
Churchkhela is a traditional Georgian snack made of stringed nuts dipped in a coating of thickened grape juice (tartara). It’s toothsome, slightly gummy, and a bit sweet. Churchkhelas have been made for centuries, providing energy for rural life activity across a mountainous landscape. Think of it like a granola bar - easy to travel with, energy-boosting, and nonperishable. Tree nuts and grapes are readily available plant products found in Georgia, and churchkhela is the pinnacle marriage of the two. The tapered candle-like effect of a churchkhela is mesmerizing. Go to almost any Georgian market and you will be dazzled with churchkhelas in a rainbow of colors.
If you are an American like me, you might find churchkhelas to be quite exotic. There is nothing quite like them in the U.S. However, the ingredients are simple and familiar. In the Republic of Georgia, walnuts, hazelnuts, and almonds are the nuts used to make churchkhela. I wanted to try pecans. Ultimately, I wanted to make churchkhela with plant equivalents found in the American South. Instead of walnuts and conventional grape juice, I used American pecan and muscadine juice. As a plant enthusiast and foodie, this recipe captures what I love best in life: the adventure of exposing oneself to a different culture with similar and dissimilar flora, and then coming home to craft something in the kitchen using the plants of your homeland - a result that gratifies a deep sense of both connection and novelty. Even if you are more into food than plants, I think you will appreciate these muscadine and pecan churchkhelas. They are fun to make (especially with a helper or two) and taste really lovely. It is a treat that feels like indulging in beauty, deliciousness, and ancient humanity.
Muscadine & Pecan Churchkhela
INGREDIENTS
- Pecan halves (approx. 1 lb.)
- 200g all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons sugar
- 750ml muscadine juice
INSTRUCTIONS
Preparation: Prepare a place to hang freshly coated pecan strands. This could be shower curtain hooks, a stick between 2 chairs, or some other hanging contraption. Traditionally, churchkhelas are hung to dry in the sun. Place paper or cardboard underneath to catch the drips and make for easy cleanup.
To make pecan strands: Take ~4 feet of cotton string and cut to make 4 strings of equal length. The quadrupling of string adds strength. Tie a mass of knots at one end - enough to ensure the nuts will not slip over the knot. Thread a needle through the other end. Pierce a pecan in the center and thread it through. Repeat until you have 25-30 nuts on the string. Remove the needle and tie off a loop at the end. There is enough coating to make at least 6 strands.
To make muscadine tartara: Add flour, sugar, and 225 ml muscadine juice to a pot to make tartara. Mix until well combined, ideally with an immersion blender. Stir in the remaining muscadine juice. Turn heat to high. Cook for about 5 minutes, continually stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot. Remove from heat as soon as the mixture has thickened to the consistency of a loose pudding. Immediately use this muscadine tartara and work quickly because it will start to congeal.
Assembly: Take a strand of pecans by the loop and place it in the muscadine tartara (take care to not get hot tartara on fingers!). Dip and spoon the coating over the nuts until fully coated. Pull the strand out and let some of the excess drip off. Now hang the strand by its loop, carrying it over a plate to catch any more drips. Repeat until all strands are coated and hanging.
Allow the coating to dry enough that it is not sticky to the touch. Traditionally, this is done in the sun for 3-4 days. Additional coatings (usually 2 or 3) are also traditional, but I’ve only done 1 coating for time’s sake. If doing more than 1 coating, you’ll have to make fresh tartara and let each coating dry between dippings.
Churchkhelas can be eaten as soon as they are dry. Or they can be cured. To cure, wrap them in towels and place in a box for 2-3 months. These will develop a powdery sugar layer on the outside. I’ve found churchkhela to be susceptible to molding, so make sure they are completely dry and stored in a cool, dry spot.
Notes
- Churchkhelas can be made with other nuts such as walnuts and hazelnuts.